Emilia Santaella Barreto

My collection offers symbolic protective barriers for the body. Each piece serves not only to adorn but also as a narrative object that reflects personal and cultural histories emphasising the tension between ideas of safety and danger. The pieces are influenced by my own sense of uncertainty and love for the idea of an object becoming an amulet to provide comfort.

The necklace is modelled in response to chain mille, which,  unlike other types of armour, has a textile quality that moves with the body—like a second skin. It is flexible yet strong when crafted in many silver jump links. The protection offered is more symbolic than practical, creating an illusion of safety.

The bow pendant was inspired by the bright red colorín seed from Mexico. This seed, known as Zompantle in the Nahuatl language and Iquimite among other names, was traditionally used for medicinal purposes; however, it also contains a highly poisonous substance. In my family, we carry it in our wallets as a talisman for good luck. The bow shape was inspired by 17th-century bow jewellery from the Low Countries. To me, bows symbolise girlhood, a term that carries significant weight and complexity. This piece functions as both a good luck charm for transitional periods and as a reminder of more complicated, uncomfortable emotions.

The two bramble necklaces were inspired by my home town, where the plant’s fruit is harvested and sold. Bramble thorns protect the fruit, and the thorns on the body are symbolic protection. Their pointed ends suggest a certain level of danger. Invoking the idea of a double-edged sword and feeling slightly uncomfortable.